AW23 Runways Debut More than Just Fashion

Runways have always been a space for experimentation, and recently controversy, following Schiaparelli’s inflammatory couture collection featuring faux exotic animal heads. For AW23 collections, we also see runway design leveling up in terms of design and ambition.

AW23 runway design has set new standards. Prada collaborated with AMO to produce an ambitious retractable ceilings concept which moved throughout the show, transforming the space from a dark, bunker-like environment to an atrium like space revealing over-sized chandeliers. The concept was an innovative experimentation on the fundamentals of light and space, and their impact on our response, as well as a cultural leaning towards more fluid environments.

More political in its commentary but as ambitious in production, Marine Serre’s collection debuted against a backdrop of three 8-m high towers filled with 1,300 kg of used clothing. The runway design seeks to confront the high-fashion world with the grim realities of the waste and un-sustainability of the fashion industry. Poetically uniting statement and action, the clothes used to create the towers will be returned to the studio to be repurposed for future collections.

“Marine Serre’s runway design seeks to confront the high-fashion world with the grim realities of the waste and un-sustainability of the fashion industry.”

 

Whimsical and cinematic, Louis Vuitton showcased a walk through set concept, continuing to channel Abloh’s stylistic legacy for playfulness and the domestic sphere. Fendi installed an oversized ‘pinball ‘track’ featuring giant balls which traveled down the track throughout the show. Combined with a custom disco soundtrack and lights show, Fendi’s runway design is the last word in immersive.

The scaling up of creativity and production levels each season show runway is no longer just about presenting collections, but also about creating experiences that are both immersive and conceptual.Runway designs are pushing the limits of what’s possible when it comes to branded spaces.

As fashion and design continue to merge, we can expect runway spaces to keep evolving and pushing visionary ideas when it comes to spacial design.